Our Fabrics
The perfect dress shirt is not just about the fit and how it looks, but also how it feels against the skin. The wrong fabric can irritate your skin, overheat you in warm temperatures and make you feel uncomfortable for hours at a time. So here we provide an overview of the different types of fabrics used in dress shirts and what you should expect from them.
Fabric weave
Poplin / Broadcloth
The most basic and widely used weave in fabrics is the poplin or broadcloth weave. Weft yarns are passed over and beneath the warp threads alternately over the length of the cloth.
Given the absence of texture, these are tightly woven flat textiles with very little gloss. As a result, poplin weaves are suitable for professionals and office attire.
Thread count
Size of the yarn
The higher the count, the finer, smoother, and more costly the cloth will be. A yarn with a thread count of 200 is finer and smoother than one with a thread count of 180, which is finer and more costly than 140s, 120s, and so on. In other words, the smaller the count, the heavier and coarser it is. Thus, a yarn with a thread count of 40 is rougher and heavier than one with a thread count of 60, and so on.
Fabric weave
Twill
The fabric’s diagonal grain or pattern distinguishes the Twill weave. Twills can range from being very thin and only visible on closer inspection (Royal Twills) to having quite thick and obvious diagonal cords, depending on the count and manufacture. Twills have a higher shine, opaqueness, and wrinkle resistance than Poplins virtually every time. They are also less crisp than poplins and hence drape better. As a result, these are excellent sophisticated casual shirts.
Single-ply yarn
double-ply yarn
Single ply refers to the transformation of a single yarn into a thread, which is then utilised to weave the fabric. Two single yarns are twisted together to create the two-ply (or double ply) thread that is woven into the fabric. As a result, the fabric has increased strength, durability, bounce, and wrinkle resistance. As a result, most formal shirts are made of 2-ply fabric, which has natural wrinkle-resistance capabilities and prevents the cloth from re-creasing after being pressed.
Fabric weave
Oxford
The traditional button-down shirt has immortalised the oxford weave. Oxfords have a soft, resilient weave that is somewhat heavier. With one yarn crossing two yarns, it is woven in a symmetrical basket design. The Pinpoint Oxford is an oxford weave variant in which the yarn is finer and tighter than the standard oxford.
Warp and weft
Vertical and horizontal threads
The primary “building block” threads required to form any fabric are referred to as the Warp and Weft. Warp threads are firmly stretched vertically throughout the length of the cloth, while weft threads are weaved horizontally between the warp threads to form varied designs. To achieve the desired look, a fabric will often use varied thread counts in the warp and weft directions.
Fabric weave
Dobby
A dobby weave is a more complex cloth structure that creates texture. Because varied yarn sizes, weaving techniques, and thread colour may be used to generate different patterns and effects, the dobby weave can have an infinite number of variations.
GSM / GLM
Weight of fabric
A fabric’s weight can be expressed in two ways: as a ‘weight per unit area’ (GSM) or as a ‘weight per unit length’ (WPL) (GLM). GSM stands for grams per square meter, whereas GLM stands for grams per linear/running meter. Because the width of different fabrics varies, GLM is determined by the width of the cloth. Both of these units may be used to determine whether a fabric is lighter or heavier.
Fabric weave
Herringbone
Herringbone is a Twill weave type in which the twill is interrupted regularly to give a zig-zag “V-shaped” appearance. It’s also known as a Broken twill weave since the finished design resembles fish bones. Herringbone weaves are easy to iron and dry rapidly.
Short staple cotton fibres
Long staple cotton fibres
The length of the cotton fibre is referred to as a staple in the textile industry. Long staple cotton contains long fibres, which means the yarn formed by combining these fibres will have fewer joints (connections). As a result, the strength and shine/sheen increase, and the hand feels smoother.
Long Staple Cotton yarns, such as Egyptian Cotton, are one example. It ensures the greatest levels of purity in fabric production, resulting in brighter, deeper, and more durable colours as well as softer, finer, stronger, and more sumptuous materials.
Fabric weave
Linen
Linen fabrics, like seersucker, are extremely breathable and are designed to be used in hot conditions. Flax plant fibre is used to make linen. It is often more loosely woven and transparent than most cotton shirts, and it has a distinct dry hand that differentiates it from cotton. Linen also wrinkles more quickly than cotton, giving it a more relaxed feel.
Special finishes
Wrinkle free, organic cotton etc…
Fabrics can be finished in a variety of ways, including ETI (Easy to Iron), Speedy Iron, Easy to Iron, Wrinkle Free (Highly wrinkle resistant), Easy to wash and iron, Organic cotton (Sustainable yarn that is soft and absorbent), NINA (Non Iron Non Ammonia) finish creaseless appearance.
Fabric finish
Wrinkle-free
Put simply, wrinkle-free is a term used for fabrics that resist creasing. Shirts made from wrinkle-free fabric – usually cotton or a cotton-rich blend – are treated with a finish that resists wrinkles. They tend to look and feel similar to untreated fabrics. We choose wrinkle-free materials that are treated at the fabric production process level. And we choose high grade cotton – Egyptian Cotton most of the time – which provide enhanced breathability, softness, and comfort. Note that this fabric definitely need to be ironed or pressed after they are washed. Aside from articulation like the inside of the elbow, the garment will look essentially identical with typical use.
